To Northern Climes
20-22 September 2008
(Note: This blog has been republished in 2019)
Changing climes
Starting
where we have ended is probably the easiest way for us to track back
over the past few days. In summary, 7 hour flight, day in Singapore,
12 hour flight and 6 hour drive.
So
here we sit in the Formula 1 Motel in Bremen. Not our finest hour in
motel selections by any means but, as we always say (by way of
justification?) you only sleep in a motel/hotel, so it doesn't matter
much what the quality is like, as long as it's clean. Well the
Formula 1 is clean, but ... it has 'shower and toilet down the hall',
swinging a cat would mean the demise of said feline and check-ins are
done at a self-service kiosk. Tomorrow will tell just how this
cheapie (30 euros!) meets our simple criteria. Given the lack of
sleep we have had since leaving home and what we have done, we
suspect tomorrow's report will be positive on the sleepability
scale!!?
Entering
the EU today was a bit of a revelation in the post 9/11 era,
especially in comparison to 'breaching' the borders of the good old
US of A. We are not 100% sure but we didn't see any passport scanning
or data entry as we 'strolled' through immigration on arrival in
Amsterdam. If it's this easy to get in, it's little wonder there are
major illegal immigrant problems! Let's not forget that once in the
front door of the EU, all Europe is accessible without immigration
controls.
Picking
up our Peugeot-leased vehicle and driving out of Amsterdam and into
Germany today was relatively uneventful. Having survived the horrors
of being driven around Vietnam in mini-vans last December-January, we
feel much more confident with the 'other way of running' than we
usually do. We have no plans for playing tourist for the next few
days of this trip. We are simply driving to Norway. Nothing is ever
that simple but, so far, our plans are holding.
Singapore
has a familiar feel to us now, as it probably does to most
Australians. It's a vibrant and exciting city but HELL it can be hot!
Our visit in transit was pleasurable as it usually is (and AS HOT!)
Language
is such a powerful link between nationalities and cultures. Perhaps
that's where some of the comfort we feel in Singapore comes from. It
could also have something to do with the increased exposure Australia
has had to different cultures over the past few decades. Just catch a
bus in suburban Brisbane to really appreciate how culturally mixed
our country has become. Large shopping centres in suburban Singapore
are just like Sunnybank- EXACTLY like Sunnybank. Singapore is easy to
travel to and around because of the lack of a language problem and
the increased exposure the people of Singapore have had to Australia
and Australians through tourism and the large number of students who
come to Australia to study.
From
the perspective of language, some parts of Europe are not as
accommodating of our poor language skills as some might like to have
you believe. Sure everybody has a go at the French and their
'refusal' to speak anything other than French (why
should they
by the way?) but the fallacy that western Europeans 'all' speak
English is simply rubbish! You have to wonder which parts of western
Europe the purveyors of this fantasy have travelled in? We have never
had trouble finding non-English speaking Germans – (and why should
they
speak English by the way?) Five Star hotels are full of multi-lingual
Germans, Dutch and other western Europeans but roam off into the
'burbs or try your luck at the local supermarket and see how far your
'Aussie-English” gets you.
23 September
On the Road Again
We
said last entry that we would report on the 'sleepability' of the
Formula 1. It was excellent. Neither of us moved for 8-9 hours. Throw
in a 3.5 euro breakfast ($6) and you have a true Europe-on-the-cheap
experience. This is particularly satisfying for two dumb Australians
who foolishly sat down at the Garden Bar at Raffles in Singapore and
drank a couple of beers each. 75AUD!!!!! later (yes you read the
number right) two very surprised Australians slunk out of said bar.
Australians
are such crap drivers! Just slip down an on-ramp on any US or
European motorway and see how it really should be done. For example-
the relatively new Brisbane to Gold Coast highway is probably equal
to, or even above the standard of most European roads. Four lanes,
good surface, well contoured: so what the hell are people doing
driving in the outside lane doing 70km per hour? AND why do most
drivers think they can pass on the left? In the past 2 days we have
driven more than 1000 km on European motorways and seen BMWs hitting
160+, traffic like you wouldn't believe - but it all works. There
are rules! And they are followed.
From
Germany we drove to Denmark today. Sadly it was misty this morning,
but once we crossed into Denmark the sun came out, the temperature
hit 19C and all was good again. We often think that Europe is crowded
and highly urbanised. And it probably is in many places. The northern
plains of Germany and Denmark are not so crowded. Open country with
'to the horizon' vistas are common. Even at 120km+ an hour, one can
appreciate the rolling hills of Denmark.
Motel
accommodation costs in Scandinavia are well beyond our budget. So
tonight is our first night in 'camping cabins'. Imagine what you
stayed in on school camps. Bunk beds. Wooden buildings with very
basic fittings. Now think whether you would pay $70 to stay there
for one night. Aside from the possible nostalgic value, it would be a
bit rich. Never mind. Just to top it off here in Aalborg, we are
surrounded by kids – yes, believe it or not! They ARE on a school
camp! Free wireless Internet softened the blow a little as we have
been able to check our email and book the ferry for our 'voyage' to
Norway tomorrow. The other softener tonight has been some very classy
beer. Carlsberg Elephant beer is 7.2% compared with normal beer at
4.8% it packs a pachyderm size wallop. Good night!
24 September
Norwegian Wood – isn't it good? Oh, yeah!
As
the sun headed towards the horizon (it is Norway – land of the
midnight sun) we had climbed to the top of a small rocky wooded hill
just above the small inlet where our 'summer cabin” is located. In
a flash we realised that we were indeed in a “Norwegian Wood”,
Beatles 196?. While the room rate for what is basically a garden
shed with bunk beds is sinful, not to mention the $5 token for a 3
minute shower, (and the hot water cuts out precisely at 3 minutes!)
the view from the front deck alone is worth the money.
Our
ferry trip from Hirtshals (Denmark) to Kristiansand (Norway) was near
billiard table smooth. As usual we got lost leaving the ferry
terminal. Our trusty Sat-Nav system, affectionately known as NavGirl
was of little help! “She” sometimes gets confused and we have
lost faith in her, particularly in foreign countries. Well this time
she was almost right. We had missed the turn-off to our intended
camping cabin site. In our defense we had found our way back on track
before she realised we were lost. If this makes no sense, then you
have never used a SatNav system in a foreign country – SO - you
just don't know!
So
far Norway is just astounding. We have travelled all of 20kms into
the country and we have been stunned with the natural beauty. Mind
you the weather has helped. Clear as a bell and 18-20C.
We
had our first experience with the fabled 'outrageous' costs
travellers face in Norway. A visit to the local supermarket near our
''summer hut' was a bit of a horror, especially for us beer drinkers.
What we bought for 50c in Germany a few days back would have set us
back around $7. However, we were alerted and with innocent looks at
the customs officers at the ferry terminal, we were able to land
enough wine and beer to do us for a week or so.
More
excitement awaits us tomorrow, because while waiting in line for the
ferry today, we discovered that our flash little Peugeot-leased
vehicle has a sun roof. How cool will that be in the warm autumn sun
of Norway!
25 September
French drivers
Becoming
acquainted with left-hand drive cars is one of the most stressful
parts of driving holidays in Europe. This trip things have not been
too bad. Except for a few minor mistakes our driving has been hassle
free. Whatever sins we have committed have probably been attributed
to some crazy French people. The reason being that our lease vehicle
has French plates. This means that we can sin with relative anonymity
while the locals continue to curse and blame the French for our
driving and almost every other woe facing the Continent.
Norway
has continued to awe us. Around every bend is another picture perfect
scene that looks as though some 'exterior' designer laid it out. Even
the sheep are artistically placed to best complement the landscape.
We have made slow progress today through beautiful small western
Norwegian towns like Mandal, which boasts Norway's best beach. The
Norwegian Casablanca according the the guide books?? Well nice it
was, but the northern Europeans really have no idea about beaches, do
they! But they sure have a near monopoly on picturesque townscapes!
Tonight
we are settled into a very up-market cabin in a beach-side camping
area at Brusand, just south of Stavanger. We have our own shower,
toilet and kitchen so a cooked meal is in order for the first time in
Europe. Because we have been staying in, firstly a VERY basic motel
and then in campgrounds, cooking has not been an option. Tonight it
is so we are celebrating. As is the norm for our trips, we have the
place much to ourselves. We even had to phone to get the receptionist
to come out to register us! With such beautiful weather, one wonders
why people think Europe in Autumn and Winter is not worth the
trouble.
Not
very many people know this but Brusand is famous for 'Hitler's
teeth'. Not what you might expect to find in a very small town, but
we did notice them before we found out what they were. Lining the
road near this small coastal town are rows of angular concrete
blocks. Yes they do resemble teeth. What might they be?? Well, they
were part of the coastal defences that the Germans put up during the
second world war to stop the allies landing in Norway. They now line
the coast road looking very much like teeth.
26 September – 27 September
For whom the bell Tolls
Stavanger
is the oil capital of oil rich Norway. The North Sea wells have
pumped billions into the Norwegian economy. And with the record
prices of the past year it has been all the better for Norway. The
city shows all the signs of a boom town. For a city of around 100,000
people it has its fair share of new high rises and infrastructure.
However the the old centre of this city, that once boasted more than
70 sardine canneries, retains much of its 17 Century character.
Driving
on Norwegian highways takes enormous patience! Speed limits change
every km or less. But never above 80km per hour. Add to this the
Tolls! They are frequent, although not crippling. What is
difficult is paying them. Virtually all booths are automatic, but
most don't take credit cards and the change required is difficult to
obtain when travelling. The real thrill comes when you hit the 'no
stop tolls'. No payment options at all. You either have a 'tag' or
you have to pay at the next petrol station. Sounds difficult and
inconvenient – and that it is. Now try to pay at the next or the
next or the next..service station. No. The stations that accept toll
payments change from Kommune to Kommune, now ESSO, next Q8, then
Shell. As you might imagine, missing a toll payment in a country
where a takeaway pizza costs $30, could easily cost you your
inheritance. And let's not forget the beer index. Today, a six pack
(admittedly of 500ml cans) cost 131 kr (about $26). And then there's
the wine! We found a state-run wine store yesterday where the
cheapest bottle was $15. Scary stuff when the wine we brought from
Germany cost about $4!
Ah
the joys of travel! It all comes to nothing though when you turn the
next corner and see yet another biscuit tin scene or gape in
amazement at the difficulties involved in building an 8 km tunnel
under a fjord.
We
are in a small village outside Bergen now for four days (see photo,
ours is the little white place in the middle) – not a bad spot!
28 September – 29 September
“Stopp Motoren Under Overfarten”
Language
is an interesting thing isn't it? Generally travelling in Scandinavia
poses no real problems for we of the mono-lingual persuasion. Reading
and interpreting signs and other written material can however be a
challenge. The title of this blog was over the deck of one of the
ferries we caught today. Best we can figure is that one should
either.. not pass wind while under your running car.. or .. turn off
your motor while on the voyage?
After
a full day 'doing' the small city of Bergen yesterday, including some
great little museums and a fantastic 16th
century seafront, today we plotted our own driving and ferry tour of
Hardangerfjord, south-east of Bergen. Driving along beside the fjords
on a 'partly' sunny day with the temperature hovering around a
civilized 12C, we were oohing and aahing at every bend. Neither our
photographs nor our words can capture the splendour of the the
fjords. Small villages line the water's edge, dotting the edges of
the fjords. The area we drove through today took us through some of
Norway's best farming land. Only 3% of this country is arable. Around
Hardangerfjord, they grow more than 40% of Norway's fruit, but it
must be hard going for the orchardists. With short growing seasons
and steeply sloping land.
Worthy
of note are the many people - of all ages – who are striding –
or skateboarding – around the towns/villages with ski poles. Are
they preparing for a very difficult winter when they can't get out of
the village except via skis – or just training for some sort of
cross-country ski competition???
The
afternoon's weather declined rapidly into heavy rain which caused
local flooding on the road home. We just hope that tomorrow provides
with us with at least as good a morning as we had today. Who knows?
This is a part of Norway where it rains 275 days a year. So far we
have been lucky!
30 September – 1 October
A Different World
Fewer
than 5 million people live in Norway, so in comparison to its
neighbours, particularly those who live south of here, Norway has
large areas of close to pristine country. Not quite wilderness in the
true sense, but heavily-wooded, open country with little or no human
impact. Granted much of this is rock and frozen Arctic wasteland, but
all this creates a vastly different world to Europe on the whole.
Rightly or wrongly, they still hunt large animals here. Furs and
pelts are on sale everywhere. The air is clean and the water crystal
clear. Is there some of that Viking spirit still left in Norway?
We
very rarely do formal tours when we travel, but this trip we had
planned to do organised Fjord trips. Fortunately for us, the lateness
of the season meant that there were no tours that suited our schedule
and our needs. Instead, both our fjord trips to Hardangerfjord,
described previously, and the one we did yesterday to Sognefjord,
were managed using local regular vehicle ferries. A fraction of the
cost and just as spectacular. What we appreciated, as we drove along
beside the fjords, were the frequent rest areas beside the road,
(note – some of them are actually bus stops!) designed to
contemplate the serenity. If you ever have to wait a long time for a
bus – just hope it's at a Norwegian bus stop. They have the best
views in the world!
Today,
1 October, we headed off from our rented cottage near Bergen, towards
Oslo. On the way, we took a ride on the Flam (pronounced Flum)
railway, 20 kms into the hills through some of the most rugged
countryside in southern Norway. As usual for Norway, every turn on
this hundred year old line took our breath away. Let's acknowledge
it, Norway does good scenery!
After
several very full days, we discovered tonight that we have a spare
day before we move into our rented house near Oslo. What a relief! We
have been ''working” fairly hard lately, so a day just cruising
about will be a bonus. Tonight, at Laerdal, we are in an “apartment”,
read “motel style room with cooking facilities” right on the
Sognefjord. Note – all the cabins were booked!! We foraged in the
local supermarket for our dinner, then wandered down to the fjord to
contemplate said serenity and marvel at the clarity – and chill!! -
of the water. Gotta love it!
October 2
Bring a packed lunch
Our
day of cruising was just as expected. The road across the mountains
of central Norway through small ski resorts to the small town of
Geilo was simply spectacular (again!). This high and this far north,
the autumn leaves have definitely started falling, yet the russets
and golds still provide splashes of riotous colour among the
evergreen pines, as well as congregating together to create scenes of
their own, softening the greys of the mountain rocks. And on the hill
tops, a dusting of early snow tops off the panorama.
Well
so much for the obvious beauties of Norway!
Gloves
off? -
Those
intending to travel to Norway (and everybody should at least once in
their lifetime!) should bring a packed lunch! Everything is expensive
beyond belief. It has little to do with value for money or paying for
quality. Sure, locally manufactured products like clothing and some
food items are very high quality. However, one has to wonder why
products commonly available all over the world, most of which are
made in China, are often two to three times the cost of anywhere
else.
Don't
even think of drinking here! Australian wine is widely available here
(but we don't drink it when travelling, preferring to try local
product). An average wine that would cost $8-$9 at home would set you
back $20 - $25 in Norway. The 'beer index' is right off the scale! A
500ml can will cost $6 - $7 in a supermarket, compared with $1 in
Germany or $.50 in Vietnam! Don't even think of drinking in a bar!
For another comparison, we noticed a common brand of soy sauce that
is available at home in a deli today, it was $10 + - at home exactly
the same product costs $2.50 - $3.00!
But...
if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. - so we grin and
bear (beer!) it! Just think of it as an over-priced, but high-quality
adult amusement park!
3 October – 4 October
Wink and a Nod
Arrived
at our house just outside Oslo last night (3 October). Great place
with a fantastic location beside the Oslofjord, about 30 minutes'
drive from Oslo. We have a frig/freezer, stove, dishwasher, washing
machine, underfloor heating and a fantastic view. We also have cable
TV including BBC World News so we can understand what is going on in
the real world. What more could we ask for? Today, after debating the
merits of driving into a smallish city like Oslo, as opposed to
taking the train, we drove. Lesson one. Central Oslo parking is even
more expensive than everything else in Norway. We may have done
better on the bus. $40 for 5 hours' parking was a bit of a sting.
All
that aside, Oslo is a very pleasant city and rather easy to get in
and out of by car -as long as you don't get lost - and of course we
did!. Not a large city by today's standards, but one with a lively
centre that boasts all the usual shopping opportunities – if you
are game, that way inclined and are earning Norwegian kroner!
The
National Gallery has a great collection of 19th
century landscapes - predominantly Norwegian of course. Most come
here to see the Scream by E. Munch. With this classic and a small
collection of other classic 19th century European Impressionists, and
of course the landscapes, this is a great gallery. And FREE.
Unfortunately,
the 'must see' Oslo Cathedral, was shrink-wrapped for renovations and
we couldn't go in. The City Hall was an ugly, red-brick building, but
had some interesting frescoes relating to the Norwegian resistance
during WWII inside and wooden reliefs of scenes from Nordic mythology
on the outside. All in all, a successful “Tommy Tourist” day.
Norwegians
are generally extremely helpful and friendly. However, one aspect of
their character, or ours, is their reluctance to recognise people in
one-on-one encounters. If one encounters someone walking down an
isolated forest track, most Australians, and probably many other
nationalities, would say hello or at least nod in recognition. Such
behaviour in Norway will bring a range of quite bizarre reactions.
Some shrink away in fear. Others scowl. Many just ignore the contact.
On odd occasions, the response can be an almost aggressive glare. Ah
well, viva la difference!
5 October
Norway in a Nutshell
Only
a couple of days remain for our Norway portion of the trip so it is
probably time to summarise Norway in the way that they market short
trips around the country. “Norway in a Nutshell.”
Toilets:
- Use them, they are free, ubiquitous and always extremely clean.
Outdoors:
- Go there! The scenery is spectacular, the air is clear and clean.
Bargain
shopping: - Absolute no-no.
Drinking
in pubs: - only if you don't drink.
Roads:
- Good for the level of traffic, although alarmingly narrow in the
mountains. But be warned. It will take twice the time you expect to
get from A to B with speed limits of 80km on motorways and 70km on
the open road.
Driving:
- Good drivers who obey the rules and are patient with foreigners.
Eating
out: - See Bargain shopping and drinking in pubs.
Supermarkets:
- Beware! Credit cards don't always work when you hit the check-out.
No hard and fast rule about this – some supermarkets are fine,
others refuse every card you own!
Security:
- Very safe but always exercise caution.
Language:
- English universally understood and mostly very well spoken.
Accommodation:
You get what you pay for. But here you'll pay a lot for even average
accommodation.
Weather:
- It IS Norway! Changeable.
Highlights:
Everything outdoors! Small villages and farms. Western Fjords. Oslo
city centre. The Norsk Folke Museum in Oslo. Hunting lodges in
mountain passes.
6 October – 8 October
Swedish Meatballs
Crossed
the Norwegian border into Sweden a couple of days back. In fact we
crossed it a couple of times, much to the puzzlement of the Norwegian
Customs Officers who had pulled up the usual van-load of suspect
Eastern Europeans who were probably just on a family holiday. Or??
We
have had such a hard time with tolls in Norway that we were not
confident that we could spend our remaining currency until we knew
there were no more toll booths! Within 5kms of the frontier we were
about to head to a shop to spend up the coins we had left, (those of
you in the know will remember that Janita cannot leave a country
without spending every last cent of that country's currency! She
left the last Norwegian shop with 50 ore [about 10 cents], which Paul
promptly threw on the ground) when we saw a sign saying Toll Ahead.
We were not at all surprised that the Norwegians might extract yet
another pound (or krona) of flesh for driving on their fairly average
roads. However, we did the good people of Norway an injustice. “Toll”
also means customs and so we crossed the border – not much of an
issue these days – did a U-turn and drove back to Norway to spend
up our leftover change. By the time we crossed back to Sweden, the
boys of the Customs service had had their fun for the day with the
hapless immigrants from 'the new Europe' and had retired to their
heated office.
Open
rolling plains have predominated in our drive down to Stockholm -
much like northern Germany but far less crowded. Great roads and no
TOLLS.
Our
Stockholm rental house is in the countryside near the small city of
Sodertalje (try pronouncing that!). Again a very comfortable place
with all the mod-cons including wireless internet. The city itself
seems to be the home of Scania. A huge plant sits on the fringes of
town but, like most Swedish industry, it is very clean.
So
far this trip we haven't talked much about our Sat-Nav, better known
as “Nav Girl”. She has done better here than she did in the USA,
where the multi-layer freeways threw her a little! Her main problem
here has been the number of new roads that have been built in the
last couple of years. (Her maps are 2006) As a result, she sometimes
gets quite lost and we are sure she just blurts out directions so as
not to appear foolish. Our favourites are the “Turn Left's” which
she hits us with while we fly along a motorway at 120 klm/hr. Yes, in
Sweden, we are actually allowed to travel at the HUGE speed of 120,
compared to the max of 80 in Norway! Yesterday, in combination with
our poor instructions to her and her poor directions, we managed to
drive about 60 klm to a supermarket that was about 7-8 klm up the
road!
Oh
yes: and the meatballs – we had them for dinner.
9 October – 10 October
Some Swedish myths
Myth
one: - Swedes are universally blond and gorgeous. Well perhaps we
have been in the wrong places at the wrong times? Blond? - Not all
that often. Gorgeous? Rarely. It has to be said that Norway seems to
have retained far more of the Viking – Nordic stock than Sweden.
Not that diversity in a population is a bad thing, but it can dilute
what has traditionally been seen as the classic “Scandinavian
look”.
Myth
two: Sweden is expensive. Depends on the value of your currency! When
we arrived, our AUD was worth 5.7 SEK. At that rate, Sweden was far
cheaper than Norway and Denmark. Beer - the only real international
comparison! - in Sweden, is about half Norway's prices. Most other
costs, food, transport and entry fees seem much the same as at home.
However, the financial crisis of the last week has driven our dollar
down by 30% so things are a bit 'out of whack' at the moment.
Myth
three: Sweden is all clean lines and design perfect like in an IKEA
product promotion. Not at all. Grot and Grunge are just as “in”
as in most other places in the world. The air is clean and the
environment is probably far cleaner than most of Europe. But cities
have the same degree of graffiti and grunge as anywhere else. Dress
sense falls far short of chic. Trakky daks are not uncommon in the
cities. Relaxed this may be, but haute couture it is not.
However,
it is not all negative. Far from it!
The
Scandinavians do great open air museums. Today we went to Skansen,
the world's first open-air museum, opened in 1891. It is touted as
Sweden in miniature as it contains sample houses, summer houses and
farmsteads from all over Sweden. There is also a small zoo. Very well
done. We have also been impressed by the museums and the old parts of
towns. And the people have been so friendly and helpful to us poor
mono-linguals. And let's not forget Gus, the very friendly bloke who
has rented us this place, plus the very accommodating person who has
supplied us with wireless internet for the last four nights! in
Sweden – whoever they may be?
We
should also mention, and thank, Ikea which has been used by many of
our rental landlords to furnish/supply our houses with everything
from taps to toilet-paper holders. What would Scandinavia and the
world be without the ORLAV shelving system or the MONIJEI throw rug?
We
leave Stockholm tomorrow on one of our 'forced drives'. 700 kms at
full motorway speed to Copenhagen.
Comments
Post a Comment